of course they will still work but just another anal thing. I find with most kits of sorts these days that are supplied with split pins that the split pins are about 2 sizes down on the hole. I also try and fit for size the pins and holes, as long as it is not bound and is free to move. actually on mine, I had to open them up a bit to help catch the dust cover because it was too loose. I've seen a few of those secondhand on eBay, with different style shanks on them (90 deg, offset, curved hook). If it fits in the grooves without being too large or small, you know that you’ve got the right size. Select the size of the cotter pin by placing it on top of the castellated nut. You can get a cotter pin kit with an assortment of sizes. MAC tools Cotter pin remover (booger hook) with comfort grip, and a small one pound hammer if needed. Step 1: Choose the right size cotter pin Selecting the correct size cotter pins is important. I use a large long screw driver to complete the bends. They have a shitload of grip when locked. With those, I cut to length first so the short end doesn't completely grab the opposite side of the hub and opposing your method Chris, I start to bend the long leg first so the pin can fully insert. but also within an environment like the hub for WW's, the long leg on it's own easily enters the intended hole and if not spread, the shorter leg just follows. What Herb said is correct as far as being able to bend one first. It seems funny discussing how to employ a split pin. For those pins I have to shorten both ends before they can be used on the castellated nut on the hubs and bearings, they are quite long *) PS I mostly use split pins being used once before for securing the springs holding the pads on the front brakes in place. Personally I would not want to use too thin split/cotter pins in this vital application. I didnt think anyone needed to be told how to use cotter pins, but the last 3 suspension setups Ive pulled apart drove me absolutely nuts, so apparently its not commonly known information. As evidenced in a later post, finding splitpins with the right thickness can be difficult, this re-use of brakepad pins*) at least helped me solve this searching problem. Note that this shorter end should be such in length that it will not touch the dustcap inner side after putting it in. After putting the pin in with the short part on the inwards position, first bend the longer part outwards and fold it over the hub end and then bend the end of the shorter end max inwards.įor this last action I use either a punch or an old screwdriver and a small hammer. The picture earlier in this thread shows the difference in length. The legs should be made unequal in length before putting the pin in I always do this by shortening one leg with a metal saw. "I take no credit for my own, of another man's fame".Įdited 1 time(s). Accept nothing nearly right or good enough" Take the best that exists and make it better. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible. IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. No cutting.Īnother video showed one tang being cut and one other tang wrapped around the bolt. One video showed the tangs be wrapped in opposite directions. The other tang was wrapped over the top of bolt. The cotter pin that I removed had one tang cut short. None of them look like the way the cotter pin was placed on my MGB. I did a search on Youtube and it seems that there is several different ways to do it. I am a bit confused about how the cotter pin should be put into the castle nut. After reading about a guy who had his wheel bearing damaged, I decided to grease them. I was surprised that it looked like the grease was relatively clean looking and there was plenty of grease. When I put split pins in trailer axles I put the short end inwards and the long end to me, I bend the long end up and smack it against the axle with a hammer and the cut the short end off. Apr 06 FLCentral Florida All British C.The wire is fairly stiff, so the pin assmebly doesnt get snagged on stuff like twigs, brush, and especially upon rollovers. The wired pins actually tie the two body posts together making them more rigid and far less prone to the pins falling off. I have tried TON of different ways to retain the body pins, this way is the BEST! Drop the pins in the dirt or grass, you can find them immediately from the bright neon color. My body is scratched and dented up, bumpers and lower arms are scarred all up, I've had to straighten the rollbar like 6 times already, you can't even read the little "HPI" logo on the cooling head.maybe I just need to learn how to drive I miss my clean and pretty Savage. I bought mine the week before Christmas and it already looks like trash compared to most that I see on the site here. On an unrelated note, how do you guys keep your trucks in such good condition? I'm starting to think that I'm abusing mine excessively, but I'm not even really that hard on it compared to alot of people that I see. I REALLY like the wire inside of the fuel line trick, I might have to copy that. I like how you guys have used the zipties in such creative ways.
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